The last time the FDA approved any new active ingredients for sunscreen was 1999. 

The sun is the number one cause for the signs of aging. And while the beauty industry is always coming up with anti-aging formulas, we are very behind in comparison to other countries when it comes to SPF research and updates. 

The Food and Drug Administration’s ability to approve the chemical filters in sunscreens that are sold in countries such as Japan, South Korea, and France is hamstrung by a 1938 U.S. law that requires sunscreens to be tested on animals and classified as drugs, rather than as cosmetics as they are in much of the world. So Americans are not likely to get those better sunscreens — which block the ultraviolet rays that can cause skin cancer and lead to wrinkles — in time for this summer, or even the next.-

Dermatologist Dr. Adewole “Ade” Adamson 

If you are staying within the US market for sunscreens, you have the choice between chemical or mineral sunscreens for the time being. It is known that mineral sunscreen is the healthier of the two options, but let’s break it down further. 

Chemical Sunscreens

• Works by absorbing UV rays by changing their chemical structure to reduce sun damage (uses chemicals to block UVA and UVB rays). 
  
  

• The use of chemical sunscreens increases free radical damage. This is because chemical sunscreens create free radicals in the skin as its how they transfer UV energy. This also creates a lot of heat that doesn’t dissipate in the body very well.
  

• Environmental Working Group (EWG) recommends avoiding chemical sunscreens with Oxybenzone because of concerns that this ingredient may disrupt hormones and cause allergic skin reactions.
  

• Tends to not be as effective, however, people often prefer chemical based as it doesn’t leave a chalky white tint, is easier to apply and also comes in spay bottle form. However, it wears off quicker than mineral sunscreen and you need to wait longer (30minutes) for it to absorb into the skin before going in the water. 
  

• Chemical Runoff can add to environmental pollution. Common chemical sunscreen ingredients such as Oxybenzone may bleach and damage coral reefs.

Mineral Sunscreen: 

• The active ingredients in mineral sunscreens are Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. These create a barrier on your skin that reflects UV light however they don’t absorb into the skin like chemical based sunscreens.
  

• Creates a physical separation between your skin and the sun. Healthier/ cleaner option, although it can cause a white cast. To help with this choose a tinted version to help blend into your skin tone more. 
  

• Zinc Oxidate is the mineral used in mineral sunscreens, however Zinc Oxidate, in its natural form, is super chunky (think of the blue and white noses that life guards at the pools in the 80's would have) that is Zinc Oxidate. It's literally a white mineral. 
  

• Most formulas use a Micronized Zinc. This is a step down from Zinc Oxidate. This one is ground down finer and smoothes onto the skin in a finer form. This also offers more UV protection benefits because you can spread it easier and covers more body surface.
  

• Nano Zinc Oxide-This is ground down even more, they are nano microscopic, and it therefore penetrates to deeply into the skin and it is not effective because it penetrates to far. You want your sunscreen to live on the surface in order to prevent the sun rays. 

Additional Tidbits: 

The percentage of UV protection, once you are over SPF 30, is tiny. When you look at an SPF 50 you are only getting roughly about 1% more coverage. It may bring you from 96% coverage to 97%.  SPF 70 you are looking at coverage of about 98%. The higher amount of the SPF, the more mineral contact has to go into the formula, and the more white mineral you have to put in, the thicker and cake like it is going to be on the skin. 

And for a chemical sunscreen, the higher SPF protection you go, the more chemical content you have to include. With higher amount of chemicals, comes more free radical damage that you end up creating. Generally speaking, I find anything over 30 to 40% tends to be more marketing. 

Recommendations for mineral based sunscreens: 

I use Kora Organics Silky Sun Drops and/ or Supergoop Mineral Matte Screen for my face, décolletage and arms on an everyday basis. 
For full body coverage on days I go to the beach or most of my body will be exposed to the sun, I use Love Sun Body, Sheer Perfection, Mineral Body Sunscreen. 

EWGS Guide To Sunscreams offers several options at various price points, it is worth taking a look. You can filter the recommendations based on what you are looking for (i.e. face, body, tinted). 

Enjoy all the benefits of the Sun, and Vitamin D, while using sun protection that is healthy for you and the environment. 

Be well,
Catherine xo